SEN 769- Jan 5 2003
- Category: Archive 2003
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News and Reports 2003
SCAT Electronic News 5 January 2003 issue 769
Table of Contents
"e" Source for Thermal Poles - Pangell
F1P contests - Simpson
Brokenspar dilemma - Andresen
Free Flight Items For Sale/Trade
Icarex covering - Livotto
Back Wire Corrosion - EoB
On Boxes - Mate
On Shouting - Mate
Bulletin 1 - Zsengeller
Ads in SEN - Burt
Re: Model box suggestions - Mac the Bigot
Re: Tails of Icarex woes - Gregorie
"e" Source for Thermal Poles
The "e" site where one could obtain the Shakespeare 20 foot poles dropped of
my input for the previous SEN.
Roger, will you please be kind enough to put this on SEN
WILL F1P SUCCEED AS AN EVENT?
Great question isn't it. I think the real question is this "DO WE WANT F1P
TO SUCCEED AS AN EVENT?"
Over the last few months there have been many comments appearing on SEN as
to the disaster that the F1P event is. However that is not the issue that is
before us now. We have an F1P development program being put in place by the
SCAT club with Jim Parker acting as the program director. My hat is off to
Jim and the SCAT club.
I believe that the F1P program is a great step in developing Jr. power
flyers. But the program will not succeed unless the experienced competitors
make an effort to support it. You don't have to be a power flyer to support
kids with an interest in the power event. There is wealth of information
available to get the Jr. plugged in and going.
One of the ways that is missing right now is the scheduling of the F1P event
at contests where the other international events are flown.
To date, to my knowledge, there has been one contest and one entry. In the
interest of supporting the development of Jr. competitors I am hoping we
would see F1P scheduled at all contests where the other FAI events are
flown. Will the entries be scare at first? Most likely, but the reason we
need to schedule the event is to create interest. Right now one of the
things really needed is good F1P designs. These will come when the
competition heats up.
I realize that most organizations scheduling events have to look at the
bottom line as to the cost of adding an additional event. As a suggestion, I
believe a set of Certificates from the SCAT Club awarded for the winning
places and given in recognition of your participation in the F1P Development
program would be all that is required. This way all who participate would be
rewarded and thanked, and the cost to the CD would be only that of keeping
score and handing out the Certificates.
Bottom line to the question "DO WE WANT F1P TO SUCCEED AS AN EVENT?" is
this. IT WILL, IF WE WANT IT TO. But it's going to take all of us supporting
it to do it. As an example, P30 had produced a lot of rubber fliers who have
proceeded to advance into other rubber events. All it took was to schedule
I have a question should it be flown at the same time as the F1C or F1J
in an America's Cup Contest? or any other for that matter.
My initial thought was to fly it on the Mini day ... but then I got
to thinking that the same model could also be
flown as an F1J. So why not fly it with the F1C and then
if the person wanted to fly another event he could enter it the
next day with the F1Js.
What do power modellers think ?]
There was concern by many of insurmountable problems arising when Hardy
started playing with gumbanders.
Now there is the opportunity to turn this problem into an increased
knowledge base on the effect of invigorators at various locations. By
using various width, thickness and spacing of tapes to place
cancellation lines thru the superfluous numbers at different contests it
will be possible to determine the influence of these invigorators via
tha trim change.
If the strips on the right wing cause an extreme left spiral, then it
can be assumed that stripscaused increased lift and/or reduced drag.
This can be simply cured by placing similar strips over imaginary,
mirror image numbers on the left wing.
However a right spiral would indicate that the strips weren't lifting
their weight. This again could be cured with symmetry. Not a big deal
on an AA model unless flying supermax or with Filati.
Hopefully Mr B will resurect his elliptical planform curved dihedral
model which needs no ID numbers to identify either on the ground or in
As unique as it's flier.
[ My question is does it have the black and white bands
on the fuselage ? ]
Free Flight Items For Sale/Trade
I have several free flight items which I would like to sell, including 2 new
Selig Timers (1 and 2 functions), 2 beepers (9V) with on/off switch, a 100
channel scanner for tracking lost models, a new German directional antenna,
and a few metres of Ikarex for wing covering (red/white/orange).
If anyone is interested, please contact me:
Chris Lenartowicz (F1A Canada)
Happy New Year !!!
I been reading that some of you readers are having nightmares covering
their models with Icarex.
Well, is not any different than using Mica film or Polyester film.
You could use UGL glue or a good quality contact cement, the only problem
is that both are yellowish and will show through the white Icarex.
The glue that I find to be the best is "VELCRO ADHESIVE", you can buy it
at any clothing material store, comes on a tube like a small tooth paste
tube and cost less than 2 bucks.
This adhesive contains Acetone and Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK) so I thin
the adhesive with MEK due that takes longer to evaporate than Acetone.
I mix 1 part Adhesive to 1/2 part MEK and apply 2 thin coats to the
structure (assuming the complete structure that the glue will be applied
is made of composites)(any balsa construction needs to be sealed with
dope for the Velcro Adhesive to grab), let dry 1/2 to 1 hour (or longer)
and apply the Icarex with the tip of a Monocote iron.
Now you need to play with it, if you think that the 1 : 1/2 mix is too
thick just add more MEK or reverse if is too thin.
Start at the D box T/E and cover the under camber first, then wrap the
film over the wing T/E and the upper surface around over the L/E and back
to the bottom of the D box T/E. A that point you can stretch and hold the
film with masking tape, mark with a pencil, remove the tape and with a
straight edge cut the excess film.
Re tape again every 2 inches at the bottom of the D box and touch with
the iron in between tape, carefully remove the tape and finish sealing
After covering, I suggest to let dry for several hours or perhaps
overnight so the film will not pull during stretching.
I don't use any glue on the upper surface, just the L/E of the airfoil
because when the model glides to the ground it will hit the little stones
and cut the Icarex against the carbon L/E and these little cuts will open
up like wounds.
Well, this is what I do, if you have any question, please just write and
I may come up with something.
Back Wire Corrosion
A question for the masses if I may.
I have been having problems with NiMH batteries that
are suffering from so called 'black wire corrosion' and
would welcome any thoughts on how I can stop it. The
symptoms are loss of battery capacity and when
inspected the negative wire is blackened, the cells
have swollen and a white liquid is coming out of the
cells. At this point they get binned.
The problem has only been apparent with NiMH and not
NiCd cells. I use batteries from Torlief Jensen which
are 2.4v and 100mAh each cell, set up as a 4.8v pack. I
have had less than one years use out of one pack before
I get this effect. I don't notice any batch effect.
I wondered if low temperature was the problem but I
have been more careful this year and I just had another
go duff. I also thought about if amount of use and/or
if heat shrinking has any effect. The problem doesn't
seem to happen if they are just stored and not used.
Does anyone have any solutions (I'm not too interested
in the chemistry going on) ?
On boxes. I have been transporting models in a 24 x 12 x 60 inch box made
of 1/2 inch foam core board since 1980. I still use it. Edges and corners
sealed and reinforced with duct tape. Top of box 24 x 60 totally removes. It
packs small and large stick and cabin, 1/2A and A gas and nosgas .020 replica,
H L & cat. gliders and A,B and C O/T gas wings and stabs. Larger fuselages go
in seperate 18 x 18 x 48 inch box. Tie rope/closer on 60 inch box serves as
carrying handle. Made it in about an hour.
Sorry for shouting but I was excited. HAPPY NEW YEAR OF THERMALS TO ALL!
I haven't gotten a SCAT EN for awhile and am wondering if you've taken
the holidays off or if you haven't picked up on my new email address. It
Thanks for all you do for the sport.
[We are still here !!]
the Bulletin 1 of the FF World Chams 2003 is on the web:
Ads in SEN
I have some books and a Honda I want to sell. How do I put an add
in your newsletter?
and whatever you want to say.
no photos - no fancy text ?
Re: Model box suggestions
Model Boxes for Airlines
I recently bought a hard shell golf club case and used it to go to the
Finals in Florida. I'll never build another model box the rest of my
life unless forced to. The Golf club case cost $100, is virtually
indestructible, and has the benefit of being Airline approved which
means the contents are insured whereas they are not with the home made
box. Truth is that I built my wood model box to fit inside the case and
I have enough room around the box to throw in all my other flying gear.
I love it! I did make the mistake of tossing my dirty Lost Hills socks
in the case after the last contest and it set off the explosives
detectors in the airport and the nice red covering on my models turned
white. Other than that everything was fine. Next trip I'm going to
bring the dirty socks with me on the plane in my carry on in hopes it
well help to me have a vacant seat next to me. I predict 100% results.
Mac the Stinky Bigot
Re: Tails of Icarex woes
> Things started out wrong when I sprayed my Kevlar Taco shells with
> white Top Flight primer. I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed. Only Hung
> knows how much useless weight I added 'cause I didn't really want to
There's a really easy way to avoid putting all that heavy white goo
on your D-box and its light too - around 1.4 g for a pair of my F1A
When the wing is complete and ready for covering, mist the D-box with
3M Spraymount and then gently lay on the lightest aluminised mylar
you can find. 0.5 micron will do nicely. Drape it over the LE with
the wing stood on its TE and you'll find you can reposition it all
nice and wrinkle free if you're gentle with it. When you're happy
smooth it down so it sticks well and trim along the back of the D-box
with a really sharp scalpel or razor.
I've used both UGL and thinned Evostick to attach Ikarex over the
mylar. Evostick is a British DIY contact glue that is thinned with
hexane. I've doped Salzer Tissue onto it with nitrate dope too. No
problems with mess or the mylar coming off in either case. As a
bonus, the shiny mylar looks really good under coloured Salzer or
Thanks to Craig Cusick for his donation in support of SEN.