Febuary 28 2000
- Details
- Category: Archive 2000
- Hits: 1992
News and Reports 2000 - First half
SCAT Electronic News 28 Feb 2000
Table of Contents
=================
Electronic Timers - Parker
Cleaning Electronics - BlakMagic
FAI FF in the UK ? - Butler
Lost windmeter at Maxmen - Abad
Polyspan question - Salzer
Polyspan - Tribe
Chris Murphy - Tribe
Electronic Timers
=================
Author : This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Roger,
I thought I'd drop a note regarding my Electronic mishap at the MaxMen before
my good friend Jon Davis can embellish on it. I don't think even a Mac could
have prevented this one. The Basic Stamp with Bauer software has two DT
times that can be selected by holding the hook forward or swung back when the
timer is turned on or reset. An audible beep is sounded for every 30 seconds
of DT time. In my haste I set the time for the test DT and did not "hear" the
single beep. The difference between 1 beep and 6 beeps is considerable. In
the famous words of Gerhard Aringer " I just can't believe it!".
Dallas and I would also like to thank the VanNest for the great new MaxMen
Junior high time perpetual trophy. It's setting on the mantle. I wonder if
Dallas is going to get a dispensation on the "Trophies in the living room
for one month only" Cathy rule.
Thermals, JIM
Cleaning Electronics
====================
Many sportsmen use brake cleaner for their F1B Hubs, F1A tow hooks
and clock work timers. This is not good on electronic parts, in particular
those with plastic.
However there are flux cleaners that are as about as effective
[and checmically obnoxious] as the brake cleaner. These will clean
the mechanical parts and not disolve the plastics when you
give your tow hooks a blast. You can get these at most serious
electronic shops.
UK Interest
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Author : This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Hi Scat
I'm a lapsed UK modeller trying to get up to date with current
techniques especially F1B.
Do you get any UK interest in your site? Where's the best place to look
at for someone wanting to buy hi-tech bits? the only one in the UK I
know of is Mike Woodhouse.
I shall keep watching with interest.
Regards, Bernie Butler.
[Mike W does sell F1B stuff as does Russell Peers, There a FAI FF
site in the UK but I forget it .. can someone there
refresh my faded memory.
You need to get to a contest Bernie to see first hand what the guys
are flying]
Lost windmeter at Maxmen
========================
Author : This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Hello Roger,
I fully agree with Mike Woodhouse, flying at Lost Hills is always a pleasure,
might it be cold, windy or hot! (with or without a bike).
After checking myself the wind on Sunday morning I lost my little blue Kestrel
windmeter, could be at the F1A line or downwind on a bearing 310º. Just in case
it has my name on it.
Best regards,
Javier Abad
Polyspan question
=================
Author : This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Rough & fuzzy polyspan surface
Jorgen Korsgaard put this question, as it may interest others here is MY
answer.
I believe that one of the following is responsible
1) storage of the polyspan.
If it is just thrown around, the smooth surface does not remain so.
Keep it rolled up and do not handle unnecessarily.
2) Covered with the wrong side out.
Not all but some charges of the stuff have one smooth (shiny) and a less
so side.
3) Doping method
Use a soft brush, thin the dope, and brush - no, let the dope flow to
the surface.
Hold the brush nearly parallel to the surface.
Rubbing with the brush to distribute little dope over a large area will
loosen the fibres.
If in doubt, more thinner and a really wet brush is better.
(I believe this must have been Jorgen's problem, as he needed 4 coats. I
need 2...)
How to solve the problem, once it has happened (and you want a smooth
surface):
1) Do not sand - it will get worse.
2) Dip your finger in thinner, and and rub over the affected area. This will
soften the dope.
Try to "rub dry" with your finger. Careful: Move rapidly so nothing will
stick to your finger.
The "bristles" will get glued down hopefully.
This may be done with the last coat of dope as long as it is still a bit
wet.
Do not dope afterwards, the bristles may pop out again.
I hope that this will help.
Regards
Klaus W. Salzer
Polyspan
========
Author : This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Regarding the query from Jorgen Korsaard on the finish on Polyspan/Klaus
Salzer vlies, this material has a rough and smooth (shinier) side. The
doped rough side looks like a camels tongue. Best to make sure that it
is uniformly 'shiny side out' unless you are confident that there is a
positive aerodynamic advantage to the rough side; also heat shrink
before doping.
Regards Peter Tribe.
Chris Murphy
============
Author : This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
I am trying to get in touch with Chris Murphy from New Zealand, who is
presently on peacekeeping duties in Israel/Lebanon. I cannot raise him
on the e-mail address that he gave me (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. ). Does
anyone have another e-mail or postal address?
Regards Peter Tribe.
...................
Roger Morrell
